FC Red Bull Salzburg vs. Chelsea : 25 October 2022.
When we heard the dates for the games in Group E of this season’s Champions League, my first task was focussed on sorting out Milan. I am, after all, used to just attending one away game of this stage in the competition. But after discussion with the Paul and Parky, I then turned my attention to the away match at FC Red Bull Salzburg. It took a while to resolve but I eventually sorted out a trip for us all.
2022 (Milan and Salzburg) would join 2015 (Porto and Haifa) and 2017 (Rome and Baku) as the only years that I would complete two of the three group phase games. I am in awe of those that continually attend all three, and in absolute awe of those who rarely miss any European away games.
Quickly, then, after the home game with Manchester United on the Saturday came a trip out to Austria on the Monday.
I collected my fellow troops late on Monday morning and we headed up to Heathrow where a British Airways flight to Nuremburg in southern Germany would take off at around 3.45pm. There was much traffic in the last section of the trip east and we arrived a little later at Terminal Five than planned, but all was OK. I had hoped for something a little more substantial on the outbound flight than a packet of crisps and a glass of water but “hey ho.” A fortnight after I was looking down on the port of Dover en route to Turin, I was looking down on it again, though from a much higher elevation. We had left a little later than planned but the pilot clipped thirty minutes off the flight time. We touched down at Nuremburg airport at 6.45pm.
We caught a cab to our digs – a really nice apartment in the middle of an industrial estate – and then soon headed for some drinks. We stopped at a little neighbourhood bar en route to a U-Bahn station for the first drink of the trip, and I had to conjure up some German for the first time in ten years. Amazingly, I realised that the very last time that my little tootsies had been on German soil was the day after a certain game in Munich in 2012. Nuremburg city centre was pretty quiet. We had further drinks in three bars and the lagers, of course, went down well.
I was last in this old city in the summer of 1985. I had stopped off on a month-long Inter-Rail trip to primarily visit Zeppelin Field where Hitler held those rallies in the horrific days of the Third Reich. I traipsed all over the southern half of the city on a Sunday afternoon. Eventually I found it all. The Grosse Strasse was still in place, as was the Congress Hall, and the tribune and podium remained. I clambered up on to the very podium where Hitler addressed his followers. It was, I have to admit, a very eerie sensation.
It pains me to report that a Chelsea mate, a Jew, was abused after a recent game by some of our so called supporters.
Words fail me.
I spoke to Paul and Parky about Hitler’s plans to build the biggest stadium of them all, just to the west of the Grosse Strasse – “Deutsches Stadion” – which would have held 400,000 in a huge horse-shoe shape, but this monster was never built. It would have been the biggest stadium ever.
I saw their eyes glaze over before me.
Sadly, my hunt for a German sausage, a crusty bread roll, with some sauerkraut and a dab of mustard did not materialise. We made do with a chicken kebab.
The wurst was still to come.
…more eyes glazing over.
On the Tuesday, the day of the game, we took the U-Bahn into town and caught the 8.12am train south to Munich. It was a quick and easy service and only took an hour or so. I tried to snooze a little. Outside there was mist and fog, with limited visibility.
But I was awake to see a gorgeous image that I think will remain in my memory forever. Looking out to my right, in the middle of a field shrouded in mist, a lone white church tower stood, with sunlight crashing against it.
It took my breath away.
I quickly thought about my two previous games in Austria.
1994/95 : Austria Memphis 1 Chelsea 1 and two words – “John Spencer.”
2016/17 : Rapid Vienna 2 Chelsea 0 and another two words – “shite friendly.”
There was a quick turnaround at Munich’s Hauptbanhof, a place that I remembered not only from post-match meanderings in May 2012, but from my wanderlust years of my youth. My most common trip in those days was Milano Centrale to Munich Hauptbanhof, via a change at beautiful Verona. It afforded me a fine sleep between Verona and Munich. I must have travelled that route ten times or so.
Our onward leg left from Platform 11, right on the southern edge of the main section of the station, which – I have to remark – was not as large as I remembered it. Nothing on the scale of Milan’s beauty anyway.
Platform 11 brought back a funny memory or two from late September 1987.
Ian, Trev and I – three college mates, as featured in the Milan episode – had spent the evening at the city’s famous Oktoberfest. We were blitzed. Four had consumed massive steins apiece. We were walloped. I am not sure how, but I walked away with two “Spatenbrau” steins, the others had one apiece.
Fellow travellers were slumped, snoozing, comatose, all over the station, a scene that was repeated after the 2012 game where Glenn and I tip-toed among Bayern fans on the way to the left-luggage lockers.
Anyway, to cut a long story short, in a beer-induced haze, my two companions first lost their left-luggage keys, but eventually found them. Trev was out of money so decided to catch an overnight train to Paris and head back to the UK early. Ian and I would travel to Hamburg. But I then realised that I had lost my wallet and Inter-Rail card and that Trev must have had them both; he was already asleep and far from impressed when I woke him. It was lucky that I had awoken him to be honest. He was on the wrong train so I quickly hooked him off. By sheer luck, I had rescued him just in time. We all then decided to catch an overnight train to Vienna to get some sleep after the Hamburg train never materialised.
We slept like babies.
When we woke, all was still. Ian and I presumed that we had miraculously arrived in Vienna. Trev, bless him, thought that he was newly arrived in Paris.
I looked outside.
We were still stuck on platform 11 at Munich.
My only explanation for this is that the Germans, bless them, had put on train compartments for revellers to sleep in overnight during Oktoberfest.
But none of us never found out for sure.
Later that day we headed up to Stuttgart and Dortmund to see a football game that had already taken place.
Drink. What a perilous friend.
Back to 2022, we arrived at Salzburg train station at just before 11am. The last few miles of the jurney had been simply magnificent. The Alps to the South were just splendid. What a joy to travel in support of our team.
Salzburg. I was last here with my then girlfriend Judy, en route to a few days in the Alpine resort of Kaprun in late 2010. I had dropped into Salzburg from Vienna once in the ‘eighties by train, I think I never left the train station, but stayed an afternoon in the city on a day trip with my parents in 1977 from Seefeld in the Austrian Tyrol.
We picked up our match tickets at the quaintly named Fanny von Lenhert Strasse – I heard we had sold all 1,500 – and then quickly nabbed a cab to take us to our digs, a one room apartment a mile outside the city centre. Within an hour of arriving in Salzburg, we were sat at a table in a local restaurant drinking a pint of Stiegl, awaiting the arrival of plates of pork schnitzel with parsley potatoes.
The beers went down well. I remembered the beer from 2010.
The food was gorgeous too.
We walked into town and soon spotted some friendly faces outside a sun-kissed bar in the square next to the train station. It was about 1pm.
“Corner Am Banhof” was to be our base for around two hours. It was bliss. Although our friends Alan, Gary, Daryl, Nick and Pete were down in the old town, where I had visited with mater and pater forty-five years ago – I remember a castle atop a hill and Mozart’s birthplace and lots of antiquity – we found it hard to move. Leigh and his son Darren invited us over to share a table and their two friends from Norway had brought them a bottle of “Fisk” to consume; a heady drink consisting of eucalyptus, liquorice, menthol and vodka. The bottle was shared.
“It’s like getting pissed on Lysterine.”
A local woman, with a shapeless hat, kept pestering us for cigarettes and money.
Leigh’s son Darren asked me if I knew who she was.
“Badly Drawn Girl.”
Friends of Leigh and Darren from Basingstoke called in, suffering a little from a Stiegl brewery tour on the Monday.
Talk of alcohol, talk of football, talk of alcohol again.
The sun beat down. My face was heating up.
“You love the Limoncello, Leigh.”
“Love it? He bought the T-shirt.”
Leigh, wearing a vivid yellow Stone Island T-shirt, beamed in the autumnal sun.
Many friends drifted in and away. A group of Chelsea supporters were sat across the way. I felt sorry for the lone bartender. She was pulling pints of “Stiegl” at record speed.
It was time to move on. We had heard that some friends were massing at the “Shamrock” in the old town so another cab was hailed. We usually avoid Irish bars, preferring local ones, but the weight of friendship was pulling us. Inside, there were more familiar faces.
Fifteen minutes, we sauntered into the “Shamrock” and yes, faces everywhere.
Cathy and Dog, Josh and Andy from LA, the Gloucester boys, Big Rich, George from Prague, Charlotte, Donna and Paul from Somerset, Skippy from Brisbane, the famous Druce brothers.
The drinks flowed. Smiles and laughter. We stayed around two hours.
Andy led the march to a cab rank and we hopped in. Andy, now a family man, used to be ever present at games at the Chelsea pub in Orange County but can’t attend so many these days.
“I miss the sticky floors.”
I knew exactly what he meant.
It took forever, maybe forty minutes to travel just a few miles. We were dropped off outside the Red Bull Arena to the west of the city centre with about forty-five minutes to go before the game was to begin at 6.45pm. This would be the second Red Bull Arena that I would have visited after the one in Harrison in New Jersey in 2015.
The Red Bull franchise, for the want of a better word, has many enemies in the world of football. Since taking over at Austria Salzburg in 2005, the club changed colours from violet and white to red and white – a sure way to upset existing fans, eh? – and have hoovered up titles ever since; thirteen since 2005.
A breakaway club – SV Austria Salzburg – was soon formed and there are factions within the current sporting landscape of the city.
I was reminded of a conversation that I had in a Viennese bar en route to Bratislava in 1997. I was chatting to an Austria Memphis fan – sponsorship has long been part of this nation’s football scene, this club is now known as Austria Vienna but was temporarily named after a cigarette brand – and he spoke of a pre-season tournament that used to take place between teams in Europe that played in violet, that rarest of football colours. The three teams that I remembered were his own Austria Memphis, Anderlecht and Fiorentina. I suspect that a fourth team was Austria Salzburg.
Reb Bull Salzburg fans hated the way Red Bull Leipzig stole some of their best players since its formation in 2009; seventeen all told. This can’t be how football will be run in future generations, can it? There is no more hated club in Germany than Red Bull Leipzig. The fans of Locomotive Leipzig must loathe the club like no other team.
I guess that Red Bull Salzburg are equally loathed in Austria.
I am sure it wasn’t by design, but we ended up virtually circumnavigating the stadium which was built in 2003. We set off outside the east stand, bumping into fellow Chelsea on the way, before finally ending up outside the away entrance in the south-western corner. A factory was pumping flumes of smoke into the bright blue sky near the stadium, and as we walked underneath the dark stands, walkways above allowed fans, presumably enjoying pre-match festivities in adjacent corporate blocks, to traverse into the seating area. They resembled skywalkers. There was something bleak and futuristic about this, almost dystopian, an odd image that I had to capture on film.
Fritz Lange’s “Metropolis” as a football game? Maybe. He was born in Vienna. Maybe he knew something.
Chelsea played a pre-season game against this team at this stadium in July 2019; a 3-0 win. I am sure nobody I know went.
We were inside with about half-an-hour to go. The Chelsea support was split into two. We were based in the rather dark and dingy lower corner at the southern end. I took many photos of friends as they waited for the game to begin.
I approached Tim, DJ, Neil and Pete.
“Not sure I am ready to do this game on my blog. I am bollocksed.”
The result of around five hours of solid drinking was having an effect.
The three of us spotted space where the Famous Five – Nick the Whip, Pete, Alan, Gary and Daryl – were stood so we joined them. There was rail seating and of course everyone stood. There was netting ahead of us, obscuring the view, with fences to the front and screens to the sides. We are so used to no segregation in the UK that it still comes as a slight shock to see what others in Europe put up with.
Before kick, the dimming of lights, the boom of the PA, then mosaics and a huge “Salzburg” banner at the opposite end.
I had again, as in Milan, opted on my pub camera for this trip. In this dark corner, I was sadly resigned to the fact that my photos wouldn’t be too great for this game.
Chelsea were wearing those poxy navy socks; why? The home team were in a meek and weak grey kit, like something from an Alex Ferguson dystopian nightmare, circa The Dell 1996.
Chalobah – Silva – Cucarella
Pulisic – Kovacic – Jorginho – Sterling
Gallagher – Aubameyang – Mount
Or something like that.
It was probably easier to surmise the shape upstairs in the other section. Very soon into the game I mentioned to Pete that we were exhibiting the exact same stance, leaning on the metal barrier in front, but with our fingers smothering our faces in fear of a misadventure.
An early chance for Kai Havertz. Reacting well to collect a miss-timed headed back-pass, he stretched but crunched the Salzburg ‘keeper Philipp Kohn who lay on the deck for a while.
Chances at either end were exchanged in the first quarter of an hour and it was an even game. Maybe Pete and I were right to be a little concerned. It had been a lovely trip this far, and although these European forays are never all about the football in itself, the onus was on us to secure a win here and, with it, our passage into the knockout phase in 2023.
The home fans were raucous. But we were in good voice too.
“And it’s Super Chelsea.”
The referee, from Switzerland (um, is that akin to us having a Scottish ref in charge at Chelsea, answers on a postcard…) was wearing a red shirt, black shorts and red socks. This elicited a super bit of trivia from Nick who has been going to Chelsea since the ‘fifties and always, always, has a cupboard full of interesting facts about our wonderful club.
“We wore those colours at Maine Road in 1966, the game when Osgood flicked some V-signs at the City supporters.”
A Salzburg shot flew over the bar at our end.
A forest of wanker hands to the home areas, thank you very much.
On twenty-three minutes, a move broke down at the other end and the ball fell to Mateo Kovacic. With the quickest of reactions, our Croatian man guided the ball high past the Salzburg ‘keeper from twenty yards out.
What a finish. He gets too few goals, but they are often classy efforts.
Alan, to my right :
“Zey vill have to come at us now.”
“Come on meine kleine diamonds.”
Chelsea were 1-0 up.
“He signed for Chelsea on a transfer ban.”
From a Conor Gallagher corner, a glanced header from Pierre-Emerick Aubameyang soon followed, but there was a sublime stretch and save from their ‘keeper. After a magnificent flowing move from south to north, Havertz set up Aubameyangr but our whole section groaned when the chance was spurned.
More chances were exchanged but Chelsea were in the ascendency, often with long passing moves aimed to find spaces in the packed Austrian defence.
A save down low from Kepa.
A save from another Gallagher cross and a meek Havertz header, close in.
Just before the break, our best move of the game thus far, with the impressive Havertz dancing in from the left touchline and the ball ending up with Aubameyang, but yet another fine save by their ‘keeper.
At the break, I had a little wander and began watching the second-half at the back of the section for a different perspective. The area next to the home fans to our right afforded such a poor view.
Soon into the second-half, Salzburg equalised when Junior Adamu latched onto a searching ball from out on their left cut out everybody. It was a fine goal and reignited the home fans.
Two quick chances followed for Aubameyang – another fine save – and Jorginho, a header swiped away on the line.
At the half-way stage of the second-half, Christian Pulisic twisted and turned the ball inside to Havertz, who dragged the ball back.
I shouted “Kai – SHOOT!”
His left foot conjured up some magic, the ball flying into what the Americans call the “upper 90.”
I hugged Daryl – I was now at the other end of our line – and we celebrated a really fine goal.
“It’s still nice to know that after all the years I have known you, and after witnessing so many Chelsea goals, it still elicits the same response.”
We were now 2-1 up.
Ruben Loftus-Cheek for the excellent Kovacic.
A fine save, now, from Kepa down low. A clearance from Thiago Silva off the line. Phew.
Armando Broja for the frustrating Aubameyang.
A few more chances came and went, with Kepa now the busier of the two ‘keepers.
Two late substitutions.
Hakim Ziyech for Sterling.
Mason Mount for Gallagher.
Thankfully, there were no late scares. With us winning 2-1 and Milan beating Dinamo Zagreb 4-0, our qualification for the next phase, and holiday roulette, was secured. A first-place finish is teasingly close.
Right after the match, we sped outside, over a grass verge and straight onto a waiting bus that took us straight back to the centre of the city. As the bus reached its destination, there was a spontaneous round of applause for the driver. This was just excellent. What great organisation.
Five of us, Team Druce and us Three Chuckle Brothers wandered off into the city. We hoped to get some food, but two places were shut. We caught a cab after a drink in the first restaurant of the day and ended up a few doors down from the “Shamrock” in the old town, or rather right on the very edge of it.
“I saw more of bloody Salzburg in 1977 with my parents.”
More “Steigls”, more laughs. The night continued on. We stayed for two hours. At around 1am, it was time to call it a night. We got a cab back to Ausstrasse and soon fell asleep.
I was awake at around 9am on the Wednesday with not the slightest hint of a hangover. I just love those Austrian and German beers.
We wandered down to the city centre, killed some time with some food, alas no wursts, and caught the train to Munich at midday.
At Munich Hauptbanhof, there was an hour wait. Our pre-printed itinerary said that our return train to Nuremburg would depart at just after 3pm from platform 25, this one on the northern edge of the main station.
At just before 3pm, we saw a train marked up for Nuremburg pull in to platform 22.
We hopped on it.
Well, not quite.
After an hour or so, with me trying but failing to nod off, I noticed we were making very slow progress. We were on the wrong train.
This one, instead of arriving at 4.45pm ahead of our 7.50pm flight home, would get in to Nuremburg at 6.16pm.
We had obviously missed an announcement about our booked train, much faster, leaving from another platform.
From 4pm to 6pm, we sat still and silent, consumed about our plans once we hit Nuremburg. It was the slowest two hours of my life. The train tantalisingly stopped right outside the final destination for ten minutes.
Tick tock, tick tock.
It eventually pulled in at 6.25pm.
I almost expected a German army officer in plain clothes to wish us “good…luck.”
We hurriedly raced out into the evening air and I shouted to the first cab driver.
“Flughafen. Schnell. Schnell. Schnell.”
As I said it, I knew it sounded ridiculous.
Thankfully, the cab only took ten minutes to reach the airport and by 7pm, we were through security and waiting for our – now typically delayed – plane. We were there with an hour to spare.
I heard the theme to “The Great Escape” in my head.
But still no German sausages. Damn it. Next time.
The flight left a little late, but we were back at Heathrow in good time. We left there at just before 10pm, and I was home just after midnight. It had been the easiest part of the entire trip home.
This had been a lovely trip.
And I have enjoyed writing this one.
Why does its title reference a train station in Germany, though?
Because it’s Munich. I just like talking and writing about Munich.
My friend JD always lists the number of stadia that he has attended seeing Chelsea games outside the UK, and the one in Salzburg was number seventy-six. That’s some number, eh?
While I am in the mood, and everyone knows that I love a list, my current foreign experiences with Chelsea are as follows (and I include games in Scotland, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland here as these countries are outside of our home league which includes England and Wales) :
Camp Nou, Barcelona, 4.
Stadio Olimpico, Rome 3.
Allianz Stadium, Turin 2.
Dignity Health Sports Park, Carson, California 2.
Estadio Dragao, Porto 2.
FedEx Field, Landover, Maryland 2.
Johann Cruyff Arena, Ajax 2.
Mohamed Bin Zayem Stadium, Abu Dhabi 2.
Nissan Stadium, Yokohama 2.
Olympic Stadium, Baku 2.
Parc Des Princes, Paris 2.
Yankee Stadium, New York 2.
Allianz Arena, Munich 1.
Allianz Stadion, Vienna 1.
Bank Of America Stadium, Charlotte 1.
BayArena, Leverkusen 1.
Benito Villamarin, Seville 1.
Birds Nest Stadium, Beijing 1.
Bukit Jalil Stadium, Kuala Lumpur 1.
Cowboys Stadium, Arlington 1.
Estadio Jose Alvalade, Lisbon, 1.
Giants Stadium, Meadowlands, New Jersey 1.
Groupama Arena, Bucharest 1.
Heinz Field, Pittsburgh 1.
Ibrox Stadium, Glasgow 1.
La Romareda, Zaragoza 1.
Luzhniki Stadium, Moscow 1.
M&T Bank Stadium, Baltimore 1.
Mercedes-Benz Arena, Stuttgart 1.
Michigan Stadium, Ann Arbor 1.
Nef Stadium, Istanbul 1.
Olympic Stadium, Kiev 1.
Optus Stadium, Perth 1.
Prater Stadium, Vienna 1.
Rajamangala Stadium, Bangkok 1.
Rasunda Stadium, Stockholm 1.
Red Bull Arena, Harrison, New Jersey 1.
Red Bull Arena, Salzburg 1.
Richmond Park, Dublin 1.
Sammy Ofer Stadium, Haifa 1.
San Siro, Milan 1.
Stade Louis 2, Monaco 1.
Stadion Strelnice, Jablonec 1.
Stadio Olimpico, Turin 1.
Stadio San Paolo, Naples 1.
Stanford Stadium, Palo Alto 1.
Steaua Stadium, Bucharest 1.
Subaru Park, Chester, Pennsylvania 1.
Telhelne Pole, Bratislava 1.
Toyota Park, Chicago 1.
Ullevaal Stadium, Oslo 1.
US Bank Stadium, Minneapolis 1.
Veltins Arena, Gelsenkirchen 1.
Vicente Calderon Stadium, Madrid 1.
Weserstadion, Bremen 1.
Windsor Park, Belfast 1.
Total Stadia : 56
Total Games : 71
UEFA Games : 43
FIFA Games : 4
Friendly Games : 24